Ireland Begins: Lost Sunglasses, Left-Side Driving, and Stormy Skies
Landing in Dublin: Wind, Sunglasses, and Rental Car Reality
We landed in Dublin early in the morning — excited, groggy, and ready to kick off three weeks of exploring the northern half of Ireland.
There was no jet bridge from the plane to the terminal. Instead, we stepped out onto the tarmac via a staircase that looked like it hadn’t changed since the ‘80s. It was still early, and the wind was doing that dramatic “welcome to the island” thing. And that’s when it happened: a gust of wind hit me square in the face and whoosh — my sunglasses (perched on top of my head, as always) took off into the Irish airspace. I didn’t even notice until much later. I like to think they’re still somewhere on the runway, having a solo adventure.
Oh well. Onward.
Getting the Rental Car (Tiny by Design)
We picked up the smallest car we could find. Everyone, and I mean everyone, told us the roads in Ireland are narrow. And they weren’t wrong.
The car is… functional. Compact, underpowered, and definitely not Randy’s dream ride. But it works. Sort of.
The car is tiny, which is great for squeezing into narrow lanes and tight parking spots, but less great for power and comfort. Let’s just say... Randy is not in love with it. He’s a car guy, and this one? It’s not exactly thrilling to drive. But it’s getting us where we need to go — slowly but surely.
Driving on the Left: A Whole New Brain Game
Randy’s been doing all the driving so far (hero status). But wow — switching from right-side to left-side driving is no joke, especially after decades of muscle memory. He says it feels like cars are constantly coming at him, even when everything is going fine. Roundabouts? Stressful. Left turns? Confusing. Right turns? Momentarily terrifying.
It’s not that it’s hard, exactly — it’s just mentally exhausting. You have to think about everything. Where to look, which way to turn, where your car is on the road. And for someone with over 50 years of reflexes built on the opposite system, that’s no small ask.
Tips for Driving on the Left (when you’re not used to it)
If you’re thinking of renting a car in Ireland — and you probably should, if you want to get outside the cities — here are a few things we’ve learned so far:
Go small. Seriously. You’ll thank yourself on Day One. Narrow roads, tight villages, and stone walls everywhere — smaller is better.
You’ll turn on the wipers instead of the blinkers. Often. Just accept it. You’re in good company.
Practice in the parking lot. Seriously — get a feel for the car before jumping on the motorway. Where's reverse? How's the turning radius? Which side are the wipers on? (Spoiler: not where you expect.)
Watch your left side. That’s where curbs and stone walls live.
Take breaks. Mental fatigue hits fast when everything feels backwards. This kind of driving wears you out more than you'd think. Build in short days or stops to recharge.
Drive defensively, not nervously. Irish drivers are used to the roads and usually very courteous, but you’ll want to keep your speed in check and your focus dialed in.
Repeat this to yourself: Stay left, look right. It becomes your new mantra, especially at intersections and roundabouts.
Be kind to your driver. If you’re the passenger, your job is to stay calm, navigate well, and try not to yelp every time a curb or hedge passes closely. (I’m working on this.)
So with sunglasses gone, a car that could lose a race to a sheep, and a driver who’s learning to rewire his reflexes — we were off.
First Stop: Athlone (And a surprise Pony)
Our first stop was Athlone, about 90 minutes west of Dublin. I booked an Airbnb just outside of town to avoid dealing with city traffic right away. Great call, if I do say so myself although there were no restaurants nearby so we did have to drive back in for food!
The place was a cozy, rustic cabin behind a farmhouse and old barn, tucked into the countryside. Quiet, peaceful, and just what we needed after a full day of travel. The best part? A Shetland pony grazing nearby like he was waiting to greet us. An actual, adorable, fuzzy little Shetland pony. Totally stole the show.
We didn’t explore much in Athlone — that wasn’t the point. This stop was about landing softly. A place to regroup, get our bearings, and ease into the pace of the trip. A friend had recommended Sean’s Bar, Ireland’s oldest pub (or so they say) and I was sorry we missed it but we just didn’t have it in us.
Welcome to the West: Storms, Castles, and Sky Road Views
The next morning, we drove to Clifden, a charming town in Connemara on the west coast. It was a beautiful drive, but a tiring one for Randy. Driving on the left hadn’t become second nature yet, and every car coming toward us felt like a near miss (even when it wasn’t). The roads out here are narrow and winding, and when you're still rewiring 50 years of driving reflexes, it’s just plain exhausting.
Our Clifden Airbnb: Views, Wind, and One Narrow Road
Our Airbnb was a few kilometers outside of town, perched up on the Sky Road — famous for its views, infamous for its size (or lack thereof). Let’s just say passing another car involves a lot of cooperation and a few prayers.
But the spot itself? Worth it. A quiet, cozy place with a beautiful view over the hills and water, the kind of landscape that feels like it belongs in a movie set. We stocked up on groceries, settled into our new place, and didn’t move much the rest of the evening.
The Storm Day
Ireland showed off the next day with non-stop wind and rain. We had plans… but they quickly turned into staying warm and dry inside, reading, snacking, and watching the sky throw water sideways.
Honestly? Not a bad way to spend a day.
View from Airbnb in the rain
The Sun Returns: Castles and Connemara Horses
The next day, the sun came back — and so did our energy. We walked down the road to Clifden Castle, a ruined 19th-century manor house with dramatic stone arches and ivy-covered walls.. No ticket booth, no big crowds — just you, the stones, and the wind.
On the way, we passed a several Connemara horses grazing near the path. Beautiful animals — strong, graceful, and somehow perfectly matched to the landscape. We snapped a bunch of photos, probably too many, but who's counting?
Driving the Sky Road
The following day, we drove the full Sky Road. It’s gorgeous — cliffs, sea, light bouncing off everything — and also a bit nerve-wracking if you’re the one behind the wheel. Very narrow, very curvy, and very worth it.
Of course, as is tradition, the rain returned by afternoon. Not a downpour this time — just enough to make us tuck back in for the rest of the day. We didn’t get to explore Clifden town as much as we’d hoped, but that’s the thing with slow travel: sometimes the weather decides for you, and that’s okay.
Leaving Clifden: Kylemore Abbey and Onward to Strandhill
Today we packed up and headed north toward Strandhill, just outside of Sligo. Along the way, we stopped at Kylemore Abbey — a lakeside castle-turned-abbey that looks straight out of a fairytale.
It’s a beautiful stop, even without the famous mirrored lake reflections (thanks, wind). Worth a visit if you’re in the area — especially if you want a photo break that doesn’t involve sheep traffic.
What We’ve Learned So Far
We’re only a few days into the trip, but a few things have already become clear:
1. Don’t overplan.
We had a rough outline of stops and ideas for what we wanted to see, but we’ve quickly learned that flexibility is key. The weather shifts constantly, the roads are slower than you think, and sometimes the best thing to do is scrap the plan and just enjoy where you are.
2. The weather does what it wants.
Yes, Ireland is green for a reason. We’ve already had rain, wind, sideways rain, and a few absolutely stunning blue-sky days — all in the span of 72 hours. We’re learning to check the forecast loosely, but mostly just take each day as it comes.
3. Maybe four nights in Connemara was a bit much.
We love the area — the scenery is stunning, the people are kind, and the pace is exactly what we needed to start the trip. But the weather out here is serious. If we were doing it again, we might shave off a night and add it somewhere with a better chance of drier days.
4. Rest is part of the trip.
It’s tempting to want to see everything, especially in a place like this. But sometimes the best part of the day is watching the storm roll in from the window, making coffee, and just being still. We’re giving ourselves permission to do that, and it’s made the trip better already.
Coming Up Next…
We did a quick overnight in Strandhill, a laid-back surf town just outside of Sligo. It was short but sweet — enough time for a walk along the beach, a gelato, and a peek at some serious waves.
Now we’re settling into Donegal, where we’ll be spending the next week. Hoping for a little more sun, a few more slow mornings, and maybe even a dry hike or two. More on that soon!