Wild Roads & Windy Views: A Journey Through Donegal
A Quiet Irish Morning – Fahan, Inishowen Peninsula
After wrapping up in Connemara, we headed north into Donegal, where things got wilder, quieter, and windier—in the best possible way. This part of Ireland feels a little more remote, a little less polished, and a lot more cinematic. Wide skies, sheep in the road, and the kind of scenery that makes you pull over constantly “just for one more photo.”
First Stop (Bonus!): Gleniff Horseshoe
On the drive from Clifden to Glencolumbkille, we made a detour through the Gleniff Horseshoe—a 10km loop surrounded by brooding cliffs and misty hills. Well, we didn’t get the mist but it was a nice, overcast day so that helped!
It’s not well-marked, which somehow makes it feel even more special. We stopped at the old Bartyes Mill Schoolhouse, now a crumbling ruin in a stunning spot. Caught some great drone footage here that we’ll put together soon, but here’s a short clip to start. It felt like time had folded in on itself.
Glencolumbkille: Sunsets, Sheep & Sweaters
Our Airbnb here was brand-new and sat up on a hill with wide-open views down to the village. Just a few minutes outside of town, but felt like the edge of the world. One morning, we opened the door and sheep was just standing there. Judging us.
Glencolumbkille Folk Village
We visited the Folk Village, a quirky and charming open-air museum of traditional thatched cottages. Each building reflects a different time period—18th, 19th, and 20th centuries—complete with turf fires, antique cookware, and beds that look like they came straight out of a ghost story. It’s a small but rich window into Irish rural history and gives you a good sense of how tough and resourceful people were here. And yes, I came away with a legit Irish wool sweater from the gift shop. Tourist goal, achieved.
You’ll notice one of the photos has a sign that says Hedge School. These were hidden, makeshift classrooms used across rural Ireland in the 18th and 19th centuries. Catholic and Presbyterian education were illegal at the time, so lessons had to happen in secret — often in a barn or sheltered corners of the countryside. These schools played a crucial role in preserving Irish language, literacy, and culture during a time of intense suppression.
Slieve League
We made the short trip to Slieve League, which boasts some of Europe’s tallest sea cliffs. It was beautiful in that rugged, no-frills way that Donegal does best, but honestly, the Airbnb view might have rivaled it. The views? Solid. The crowds? Manageable. The wind? Relentless.
Malin Beg & Silver Strand Beach
Next morning, I drove solo to Malin Beg, a small but stunning beach tucked into the coast. Beautiful beach, even better drive. Narrow, twisty roads with big-sky views and not a single other car. When I got there, though, the wind was absolutely unhinged. I had hoped to go down the 174 steps to the beach but there was no way with the wind. I couldn’t use my tripod, could barely hold my phone straight. Took a few pics and called it a win. Regret not going again in the evening—the light would’ve been incredible.
Next Stop: Dunfanaghy
We drove north up the coast to Dunfanaghy, staying on Horn Head Drive in another killer Airbnb. This one overlooked an inlet into the town, and it had the kind of view that made you skip the restaurant reservation and just stay in with a bottle of wine.
First day: Windy. Really windy.
Second day: Storm overnight, rain in the morning… then everything opened up into this perfect moody sunlight. We wandered to a nearby old Gaelic bridge and grabbed a few more photos. Didn’t make it around Horn Head proper—ran out of time and patience for narrow cliff roads and sideways rain.
Final Stop in Donegal: Fahan (Inishowen Peninsula)
Our last base was in Fahan, on the Inishowen Peninsula, with an Airbnb that looked straight across to Inch Island. Honestly, we could’ve skipped every other view on this trip and just stared out the window here. It was that good.
We explored a few nearby sights:
Fort Dunree: A clifftop military fort that once guarded Lough Swilly. It was a British outpost until 1938, then passed to the Irish Army. There's a cool coastal walk and a few preserved artillery bunkers.
Mamore Gap: A steep, winding pass with views that feel like you’re driving through the sky. Bonus: a holy well and a statue tucked into the hillside.
While they were interesting, they really couldn’t beat the view from our deck.
Travel Tips for Donegal
Add drive time. Google Maps will lie to you. Rural Donegal roads are narrow, winding, and sheep-prone. Budget 30–50% more time than it says.
Plan for wind. Tripods were useless most days. Hats go flying. Bring layers and clips for everything.
Get out early or late. Golden hour here lasts forever and you’ll have places like Malin Beg or Grianán all to yourself.
Skip the obvious. The random pull-off might be better than the big name spot. Don’t be afraid to wander.
Stock up. Restaurants and shops close early in smaller towns. Have snacks and supplies on hand, especially if your Airbnb is remote.
Offline maps. Cell signal gets spotty fast—download maps ahead of time if you’re venturing beyond town.
Next Stop: Bushmills
Next up: Bushmills. Giants Causeway, Dark Hedges and a little less wind (hopefully). Donegal was a wild ride—slow, stunning, and way more photogenic than expected.