Ireland Ends: Bushmills, Castles, and the Road Home
Castle Leslie Estate — quiet grandeur in Monaghan
Changing Course
As our Ireland adventure wound down, we made a few last-minute changes. After two weeks on the road, we realized another week might be a bit too long and decided to skip Belfast and Newcastle. The idea of driving in Belfast traffic didn’t sound relaxing, so we aimed south toward Dublin a few days early. That tweak turned out to be the right call—it gave us time for one last surprise stay in a castle.
Bushmills: The Good, the Bad, and the Smelly
Bushmills ended up being an adventure from the moment we arrived. The Airbnb we’d booked looked fine in photos but was rougher than expected—out in the country, a little worn, and surrounded by fields freshly spread with manure. The smell sealed the deal. Randy gave it a firm nope.
We cancelled right away and, thankfully, found another Airbnb in town that was just perfect. The new host was great, and within an hour, we were settled in a much better spot. Crisis averted.
The Dark Hedges and the Giant’s Causeway
Our first morning there, we headed to the Dark Hedges, hoping to see the famous beech-lined road before the crowds. Rain earlier that morning must have scared everyone off—we had it completely to ourselves. The silence, the mist, and those twisting trunks made it feel otherworldly, as if the trees were guarding the lane. It’s easy to see why it became one of Northern Ireland’s most photographed spots—and why it featured in Game of Thrones as the King’s Road.
Before we went, I’d read a photography guide by Peter Lik, which offered great insight on capturing the scene’s natural symmetry and mood. His tips about shooting early when the road is empty and and using a long lens, couldn’t have been more spot on. That timing gave us the kind of quiet, moody images that make the place feel alive in its own mysterious way.
That afternoon we went to the Giant’s Causeway. Even after seeing countless photos, it’s still a wonder in person—the hexagonal stones rising out of the sea like something nature built for fun.
The Causeway is made up of about 40,000 interlocking basalt columns, formed nearly 60 million years ago when ancient volcanic activity forced molten lava up through chalk beds. As the lava cooled and contracted, it cracked into these geometric shapes—mostly hexagons, though some have more or fewer sides. The result looks almost too precise to be natural, like an enormous cobblestone road vanishing into the sea.
Of course, Ireland has a more imaginative explanation: legend says that the giant Finn McCool built the causeway to cross to Scotland and fight another giant, Benandonner. Depending on who you ask, Finn either won the fight or cleverly avoided it—but the causeway, the story goes, is what’s left of his path across the water.
We stuck to the lower path that day as the wind was fierce again (no chance of tackling the upper cliff trail safely), but the view was still spectacular. Standing among the stones, with waves crashing and the sky shifting by the minute, you can feel why this place captures so many imaginations.
Back in town, we found a cozy little café that became our spot—morning coffee one day, a light dinner the next.
The Infamous “99”
A friend had told us, “You have to ask for a ‘99’ in Northern Ireland.” So we did our best to track one down. The first shop’s ice cream machine was off for the season, but they sent us to another nearby. The woman there said her machine had been acting up earlier but served us anyway. Let’s just say we didn’t need seconds. The ice cream had turned, and the cones went straight in the bin. Chalk it up to off-season charm!
A Night at Castle Leslie
After Bushmills, we headed south and stayed a night at Castle Leslie, near Glaslough in County Monaghan. I’ve always wanted to stay in a castle, so this was a bit of a bucket list item for me. The estate feels more like a lived-in family home than a hotel—grand but comfortable, with horses trotting by, wood smoke in the air, and a calm that sinks in fast.
Horses clip by on the gravel paths, the lake shimmers behind the trees, and the house itself is full of quiet corners and firelight. The Leslies have owned it for centuries, and it shows in the best way. We would have loved to try the riding there (they’re known for it), but just soaking in the atmosphere was enough. Dinner was lovely, the staff warm, and it was the perfect calm before the end of the trip.
Storm Amy and the Journey Home
The next morning brought heavy rain, so we packed up and drove to Dublin, spending the night before our flight home.
At the airport Friday morning, everything looked smooth until the wind kicked up. Just as we were ready to take off, the airport switched runways, and the gusts grew too strong. The pilot mentioned a possible window in a couple of hours, which turned into nearly five.
When we finally lifted off, we learned we’d been lucky—Storm Amy had caused major flooding and over a hundred flight cancellations that day. We made it home tired but grateful.
Looking Back
Our time in Ireland was full of contrasts: sunshine and storms, laughter and wrong turns, peaceful villages and gusty cliffs. Every twist in the road gave us something new—some moments perfect, others perfectly human.
Standing on the stones of the Giant’s Causeway, shaped by fire and weathered by time, felt like the perfect metaphor for the whole journey—resilient, beautiful, and a little wild. From the wild coastlines to quiet castle halls, Ireland gave us exactly what we came for: beauty, warmth, and a little bit of adventure around every bend. It wasn’t perfect, but that’s what made it unforgettable.
Sky Road, Connemara — until we find our way back again